5th Dimension Forum ~ View topic - Translated : INTERVIEW WITH JAMES JEBBIA [SUPREME] : honeyee

5D Joined: 02 Aug 2004 Posts: 1306

NOTE: Please read with the understanding that translating directly from English to Japanese and back again to English is nearly impossible. The questions and answers that follow are not direct quotes from the interviewer, Yuka Iwakoshi (EDUCATED COMMUNITY) or the interviewee, James Jebbia (SUPREME). Out of respect for both of their words and work, everything was translated with the intent to be as accurate as possible. Nevertheless, things may have been dropped, glossed over, or re-worded to be more natural in Japanese first, and then again in this English translation. As everyone knows, the original interview, layout and photos can and should be viewed @ honeyee.

Special thanks goes out to T. Ishikawa 5D. Otaku status...

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It's been 12 years since they opened their shop in NY. They have grown to be internationally known as a top label: Supreme. With a new shop set to open in Harajuku, James Jebbia talks about the true essence of Supreme.

PART. 1 INTERVIEW WITH JAMES JEBBIA

"I don't want to do this" and
"I shouldn't do this" are the
thoughts that I'm concerned with.

Q: Supreme has been leading the street scene in NY and now they've become world famous as a street label born in NYC. What do you think about this?
I think we are always pursuing originality. And after we got to a certain level it was very important not to lose and to keep pursuing originality. It's impossible to be original in a day, and you can't say "I'm original" in the beginning of a brands creation. It takes time to create originality, not copy other people and care about our identity. That is what I think is the essence of originality.

Q: It seems like Supreme is not only a clothing brand, it is a lifestyle.
A: Yeah, that's right. I think it's the same for any other successful brand too. For example Polo, Stussy, Hectic, Ape, Neighborhood and so many others. They tell people their ideals (opinions) and reveal their lifestyle. We have done so many things and they weren't always perfect. But when we start a new project, we reject things that aren't like Supreme. Supreme has an identity and it reflects the lifestyle of the people who wear it.

Q: What is the role of trends and fashion marketing? What do they mean to Supreme?
A: I am sensitive to fashion trends. Medium scale brands are very sensitive to them. I'd say that they should be. When I see people around me, that helps me to understand where I am and what I am doing in the fashion world. It's not good to be too on top of trends and it's not good to be too late on trends, right? We need to know about trends to create a good balance. I read a bunch of newspapers and magazines everyday. I can say that I care about what "I don't want to do" and what "I shouldn't do." I want to avoid things that people overdo but I also want to know what people who wear Supreme want and look for. I want to provide for people's needs but I'm not not going to make more of a certain piece just because it sold well or something. We try to create every season with a fresh mind and never forget originality.

Q: What does it mean to collaborate with big companies like Nike or Vans for sportswear and Northface for apparel? What do you want from them?
A: Honestly, I don't really like to call it "collaboration" and I've never started a project for the sake of "collaboration." We don't make a lot of items. For example, we have an idea to make a Gore-Tex jacket, but we don't only make the basic black color. Because we are particular about material, ventilation, the hood and zipper's design, if we make it (in-house) it's going to be a $1,500 dollar jacket. But Northface is a pro, so they can get it done easily and they can make it top quality. Those are the reasons why we take on collaborations. If we can make that kind of top quality item that people can afford, we are going to do it ourselves. It's the same for us. We do collabos with good small brands (the same way). But I think that is the advantage for major companies. They can appeal to young people with unique projects done differently (than the company standard.) And they can get new fans. It's promotion for them to do it, you know?

Q: Supreme seems a little more violent lately. For example, the collaboration with Public Enemy, erotic calendars, Supreme baseball bats (for shoplifters?). What is the reason or intention there?
A: Is Public Enemy violent? No way! That's nonsense. They rap about politics, they're the true voice of the people. You say violent? Nowadays they rap about drugs, murder, gangs. I think that's far more violent! The bat is just a bat to us. There's no other meaning behind that. Bats are everywhere at shops in New York. It's not special... WE use it for shoplifters. That's for real. We work with people who we think are the best and we created a dope calendar, the way we wanted. It's not just like it's a porn calendar. We're not a big company. Even if it's risky to do something like that, it's worth it. We care about what's "real." And the true, REAL, legends of hip-hop are Public Enemy. And the calendar... we looked for someone who knows the value of a calendar. It's Terry. It's simple...

Q: What's different between NYC and Tokyo with regard to street culture?
A: Well, I feel that when we make and sell something in Japan, it has to be REAL, or else the buyer isn't truly satisfied. It's not like that in the US. There, people will believe what magazines and web-sites say. That hasn't happened in Japan 100%. But when Japanese buyers hear what's good, they'll start to research and look for more information. If they agree with it, then they'll buy. That's the reason why brands become big (or a trend) in Japan. Brands that have been successful in Japan have good quality and originality, so they are supported by buyers. Everything (including street culture) is different from the US.

Q: What is your reason for opening the Supreme store in Tokyo, especially Harajuku, and what do you think about the culture that is born there?
A: I don't know much about Harajuku, but I stop by Harajuku every time I come to Tokyo. If someone asks me, "Do you like Harajuku?" I don't know clearly because I've never lived in Harajuku. I think Harajuku is like SoHo, right? Even SoHo isn't perfect. There are cool shops and weird shops. But I like SoHo. I think Harajuku is similar. It's like everybody visits Harajuku when they come to Tokyo. Even though there aren't only good stores. It's similar how young people meet up (converge) in Harajuku. It's just like around our shop on Prince Street. It's easy to stop by the Harajuku store on the way (to any destination), but with Daikanyama you have to go there (strictly with the intention of going to) Supreme. And also, we don't fit the Aoyama style because we're not a high end brand and we're not trying to be one.

Q: Why did you have M&M Japan design the new Harajuku Supreme store?
A: I have been curious about their design. But I didn't really know about them. When I found out that they designed for Still Sequence in Harajuku, I started to learn about them. I think they are very creative. I wanted to put our soul in our new shop. I am sure that they can do that so I commissioned them to create our new shop.

Q: Where do you think Supreme will be 5 years from now?
A: I don't know. I don't plan that far in advance. I think that we are good to grow day by day, and it's all good that there are going to be difficult times. But it's very important to move carefully and take the right steps. For example, if we plan to open a new shop, we should do it if it's the right time and place. Otherwise we shouldn't. I think that it's very important to keep having a good eye and the right judgement.

Joined: 22 Mar 2006 Posts: 276

Joined: 15 Apr 2005 Posts: 1232

thanks for the translation.

Guest

So, M&M who designed the shop in Harajuku, is the same M&M down with w)taps and them? The crew who helped build the Philosopy store?

Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 18

right on, thanks for the translation, good stuff

Joined: 26 Apr 2005 Posts: 5815

much appreciated!

But I gotta say that the info wasn't that 'ground breaking', in that most of it was obvious and already known. Just the store designer info at the end I guess.

Guest

Thanks for the translation. Cool